In november 2025 we undertook yet another trip to Japan. Our first big vacation and trip since COVID-19. (we basically returned from Japan just before it started, at the start of 2020). A lot had changed in our lives since 2020, we bought a new home, moved, and did a lot of things to the house, and we got a family addition as well. And kittens. oh yes, kittens.
Chapter 1 – flying to Japan – KL861
Speaking of changes, since russia invade Ukraine again in 2022, European airlines are sensibly forbidden from overflying the war criminals (it makes them a lot of money when you do. and russians and planes are bit problematic if you remember MH17), this has the effect that an 11 hour flight now takes about 13.5 hours, taking a more southernly route. I’ll happily suck that one up.
One things that DOES help on long flights like these is that KLM has added premium comfort since our last trip to Japan, a class between economy and business. I have travelled all 3 now. so it’s time to compare a bit. This time we took premium on the way in to Tokyo, on a lovely Boeing 777-200ER.
Premium comfort gets you a bunch of perks. It gives you priority at the airport (but no lounge), it gives you a nicer seat in a quiet cabin section, better food and drink options, and compared to Economy since that additional class came to be: a LOT better service. (at the cost of service in economy. which will be for chapter 3).
Is it worth it? If – like me – you’re tall: yes. Mind you, I can do 14 hours in economy comfort (economy with sightly more legroom). I’m not 2 meters tall. But if you are 2 meters tall, this might be a thing for you to consider quite seriously. It’s a no-brainer for me, even.
So lets look at the components:
| Component | Evaluation |
|---|---|
| Airport | Nice, you get priority; meaning speedy checking in / luggage drop. No lounge access. But early boarding after business. A very nice compromise between economy and business. |
| Seat | A very nice upgrade indeed. Comfortable, nice pitch, excellent legroom. The footrests seem to have some minor bugs to work out. The cabin crew knew some tricks to get them to work properly. Otherwise, they jam stuck. The seats have USB-A and USB-C, and the usual dual headphone (airline supplied, and world standard 3.5 mm jack) plugs. Premium also gets the same Bose QC35-like (KLM Branded) noise canceling headphones that business class has. I have my own, so did not use them. There’s also a 110V worldplug socket for each passenger. Useful, since use of powerbanks have been banned as of 2026 by Japan. On the flight to Tokyo the USB ports worked, so I did not need the powerplug. Your table comes out of your arm rest, so if the person in front of you kicks back, it’s not as much an annoyance as it is in economy. (we all hate it, admit it! 😉 ) |
| Entertainment | Nicer (13.3″) screen, good viewing angles, snappier response. I used it for flight information only this time, since I had an iPad loaded with series. They had the usual large supply of movies, series, etc. |
| Food | Much nicer options than economy ( and I don’t hate economy food to begin with). Not quite as good as business, but absolutely good in their own right. KLM however, has said they are using AI to predict what / how much food to bring on a flight, to avoid food waste. This AI is not up to the task. Some options were already unavailable before the cabin crew reached the rear of the premium cabin (row 14). This led to considerable disappointment with some people, and understandably so. Excellent beverage options that you do not get in economy. I particularly like the sake KLM had stocked for this flight. There is also a premium exclusive mocktail (the royal blue legend), that was very nice indeed. On such long flights, good catering is a must, and KLM does disappoint in the aspect that they simply did not bring enough. What they do bring however, is good quality. It’s just better in Business and Premium. Food wise, it’s business class slightly dialed back for premium. You get real cutlery but no real plates. You do get a real glass for your beverage choice. So, while commendable that they wish to reduce food waste (and needless cost), they have tipped to scale into the region of customer dissatisfaction in this regard. (the flight home, in economy, showed the problem was not unique to that first flight.) I for one had to chose things I would ordinarily not chose. (and don’t necessarily like that much). |
| Crew | KLM’s cabin crew was amazing as always. These days, you get a lot more attention (almost business class) in premium. They really wanted to spoil us. Good sense of humor too. Apart from their main job – security and safety – they did their catering parts very well. I can’t fault them. The issue with not bringing enough food is not their fault, and I am sure they kick it upstairs at a regular interval, it must be utterly frustrating for them as well. |
I think I even managed to get some sleep, and those that know me, know I do not sleep on aircraft. (I’m far too happy and excited to be flying again!)
Chapter 2 – Japan
It was wonderful to be back in Japan again after almost 6 years. We missed it dearly. We decided to take it easier this time, and not run around Japan trying to cram as much as possible into a 2 week trip. After a very ‘weighted’ 6 years, it was time to slow down.
In Japan too, things had changed. Tourism had become much, much more intense. And it seems this has a negative effect. Normal social norms are fading and tourists (we noticed this in 2020, they were just dropping trash all over Fushimi Inari!) are making quite a mess. Still, Japan is Japan, and we stay away from the really touristy places. Even so: people: behave. Japan is an amazing country, and it needs to stay this way. Not become a dirty tourist trap.
2.1 Tokyo
Tokyo is not a city that requires much of an introduction. It’s the world’s largest metropolis and crams 35 million people (not counting tourists) in a very small area. Yet it does not feel stifling. It has a great vibe.
This time we had the enjoyable experience of staying at the Bellustar hotel located close to Shinjuku station on the edge of Kabukicho, which is absolutely amazing. It feels small ( it isn’t), personal and the breakfast is not a buffet (set menu, but they do take custom orders) and if you’re lucky: you have your breakfast with a view of Fuji (Fuji can not be seen all that often from Tokyo, about 90 days a year, we saw her almost every day, so we were rather lucky). We had the ‘Studio Premier’ room.
Being at the top of the tower, you get great views, but the restaurant and lounge (46th floor) with complimentary drinks and snacks deserve special notice.
We can also highly recommend the restaurant associated with the other hotel (Groove) in the tower: JAM17.
2.2 Kyoto
Ah, beautiful Kyoto. So old, so beautiful, and so overrun with tourists.
I think this is the first time I went to Japan where I needed to adjust dinner plans slightly to beat the queues. Places that normally would not have them, would now. The city was simply packed and this is not a good thing. Luckily, we know quite a few secrets after 8 visits, so we could largely avoid the crowds. People in Kyoto are very friendly, specially if you are respectful of their beautiful city.
Here we stayed at the Solaria Hotel on the river. Our suite had a roof terrace, and that was great to enjoy. Personally, I didn’t like the breakfast there much, but that might simply be my tastes. (My partner had no complaints).
2.3 Narita
We love Narita. This time instead of staying at many of the mediocre airport hotels, we stayed at Waqoo Naritasan Monsen. If you want something that vibes like a Ryokan but is clearly a fancy hotel, with Kabuki elements, this is your place. it’s BEAUTIFUL.
I’ts also right next to the temple, which is about as sweet as it gets.
Dietary issues for one of us made that we did not eat there, but I am sure that they have an excellent kitchen, it’s that kind of place. Excellence is what they do.
In that regard, if you travel in a mixed vegetarian / meat eater group: Retro Restaurant Waka in Narita Town. I would go back just for the tofu-chicken meatloaf. (it contains chicken, so vegetarians need to pick something else, Waka will sort you out, no problem).
Chapter 3 – Tokyo to Amsterdam – KL862
Remember when I said the added premium class comes at a cost for economy? Well here we go. Unlike previous trips in the pre-premium era, the cabin crew was a lot less visible, and they did not make their rounds with their famous stroopwafels icecream like they did in the past, and they still do in premium.
Again we were victims of the food AI, and things were out before the crew even got out of premium. Again, this is not on the crew, it drives them nuts too I imagine. I had to pick something I did not particularly like, and the absent vegetarian option left some vegetarians without food. (always order your vegetarian meal in advance, it’s free @ KLM and it means you will have a guaranteed meal suiting your dietary restrictions)
Another let down: the USB ports did not work. I had a powerbank with me, but as of this year, you cannot use them in flight. On 787’s this is less of a problem, since all seats have a 110V universal plug, but on the 777 (what both my flights where for this trip) you only get that in Business and Premium. When like me, you bring your own entertainment loaded on an iPad, and the flight takes a whopping 14.5 hours, that power is needed.
Benefit of taking the long way around russia? You get a chance to the Northern Light over the top of Greenland. It was very faint on this trip, since there was a thin haze of clouds at high altitude. Beter luck next time I hope!
